Revell 1/12 Ford Shellby GT 500

Hi all this just arrived today, what a lot of plastic you get for 27 quid including postage

Yep!  I saw the kit at our discount  chain craft store (Hobby Lobby).  It IS BIG!!!!  I felt it could use a lot more detail for a big scale kit.  I understand that the cost of doing so and the desire to make it buildable to the young limits what model companies can do.  Good luck with all the fun and challenges of a big scale kit!!!!

Well I know I shouldn't since we are off on hols in a couple of days but here is a start.
I've cut one of the doors out, just the boot, the other door and the inners to go.

Hi all a small update on this







I used copper wire for this which I think is a bit too soft the door sags when opened so i think I will have to change it for some other sort of wire, I also think I need to move the hinge further back on the door so it clears the body better, but quite pleased for a first attempt at opening a closed door.

Good luck with the opening things!

Try some cheap square mesh from your local cheapo shop Ken, it's made of a decent, almost "sprung" type steel ... would be great for this scenario.

Hi all last update for a week as on hols in the morning

Uprated the door hinges, no sag now
thought I better check clearances with the internals, as you can see only about 1/2 a mill clearance, that's a lucky one.


given her a coat of primer so she will have a week for that to fully cure

Nice job opening it up.

Great work on the door hinges. I might try it one day. Is it easier on a larger scale, or more complicated due to greater weight?

Chris

Hi KP,

Holy moly, this thing is HUGE, I even think the body would fit on one of my 1/10th RC models...

May I ask how do you manage to cut out the door's etc please...

Andy...

Hi Andy I used a scribe-r and the pointiest blade I had for my modelling knife(sorry don't know the blade number).
I started on the straight edges first and used the back of my scribe-r (it has a micro file on it) make the first stroke or 2 slowly and carefully, so as not to slip and scratch the surface of the door, once you've done the first couple of goes it seems to follow the scoring fairly well so you can start s back and forth motion. Once through I used the pointed blade on the corners (this takes ages and is the bit you have to be most careful on) thinking about it I think I would have been better starting In the corners as I was worried the last one may break with all the rest of the door cut out. It all seemed to be OK in the end though.
Hope this is of help. I was told how to do this by roymattblack on another forum although he used only the modelling knife blade (I found the scribe-r safer as it naturally wants to go in a straight line) sorry I'm telling lies Roy used a dental pick not a knife (just wanted to clear that little mistake up)

Hi KP,

Many thanks for that Sir, although I don't think I'd have enough confidence to have a go, or at least for a while anyway, so I guess I'll just keep watching and learning from y'all for now...

thank you once again...

Andy...

Hi all here is an update on this, only a quickie as we got in at 2 last night from our hols and I will be off to bed soon
Base colour on


Marbeling colour



Top colour





just got to give it a coat of varnish then let it dry before masking up.

Hi all well got the masking done.

Hi KP,

Looking good Sir, may I ask if there is any chance you could do a small tutorial on the marbling effect please...

Andy...

It basically the same method I used on the Kwak z1 but instead of clinging the last layer I thinned the paint right down to make it transparent.
You need some cling film scrunched up in a ball, spray your first colour and let that dry then spray your second colour and as soon as you've sprayed it dab it with the cling film rotating it all the time till you get the effect you want, let that dry then do the same with the next colour, repeat till you have your desired effect, allow that to fully cure, now you will have little ridges where the cling film took the paint off, give 3 or 4 coats of lacquer then rub down with 1200 to 1600 finishing paper to get rid of rigdes then a final coat of clear and there you are, easy peasy, this technique was shown to me by DeeCee over on Jerry's cherrys model cars forum. And I can see me using this in varying forms a lot.

Hi KP,

Many thanks for that Sir...

Andy...

Hi all here is tonights update

Although i'm not really convinced by the marbled look on this (it looked brilliant on the bike though mate) i really do like the ghost stripe effect ... nice job on that !!!

Nice work on the paint job, you did great with it...

However, if I saw this car on the street I would shake my head and walk away.

Hi all, well ive had to change the hinge as it interferes with the inner panel, then guess what the inner panel dosent even fit (opened a whole bag of worms here) the inner panel is so far out I have loads of scratching to do ( I think revell didnt worry too much about the interior since the door are supposed to be shut so no one will see much of the interior, the rear door pillar sits at a diffrent angle to the door, ti dosnt reach the roof ( there is a gap of at least 1/8 of an inch) the front part where it joins the root of the window is about the same amount of gap, wont be doing this again in a hurry.