3100 Chevy Custom

Another update on the bed.

I got the planks and batans installed on the platform but still had to do straighten everything out and level things off.



The next step was to drill the holes for the rivets then sand smooth and I have everyhing flush.



I started on the BMF but still have some to go so hopefully I will have that done shortly and complete the bed.

Thanks for checking it out!

Wow Denis, that bed is looking great and will look amazing when finished.

Amazing job on the bed - it's beautiful.

Wood on bed is just perfect. The hard part will be making the rest of the model as high in standards! We'll all be watching this!

Dennis,
You have peaked my interest with your build. I like the TOPLESS look.
As for your door panels, would you be able to remove the extra height from the bottom of the panel, therefore leaving the original contour on top in tact? Or possibly section the center of the panel horizontally to eliminate the height?
Just a few thoughts for you.
Keep posting your progress on this cool build....


Rick

I missed the 2nd page of this build ...where you had sectioned the door panels...
Sorry for the late post on ideas...DOH!!!!

Bed is awesome.

Thanks for the compliments guys!

Harron - A build usually is as good as its worse completed component. I just might stop here! LOL

Rick - No problem. Keep throwing those ideas. I'm always open to sugestions.

I've run out of thumbs to put up. Top shelf modelling.

Looking great, Denis. The rivets will look great on your truck bed!

Thanks guys!

I have finally got the foiling done.  It should have been pretty easy being all straight lines and nice grooves but I think my BMF sheet is on its last leg and need to be taken out back.

I came across cotton swabs from Tamiya at the hobby shop and thought I would try them.  Because of their shape they are very versatile depending on the surface you need to foil and the angle you work with them.  I like them although they're not cheap.



The bed foiled...



I was going to use white glue for the rivets but opted out and went with Micro metal metal adhesive.  Only thing is the bottle I have which isn't all that old had cracked lid.  This happened before with their micro sol.  Is this something you guys have encountered?



The bed completed with rivets and all...



Now I can move on to the interior and other components of the build.

Thanks for checking it out guys

Looks spectacular Denis. So what are the rivets made from? If I understand the Microscale product info the bottle you used is glue. How do you make such small rivets?

Thanks Dave!

Yes this is glue and I guess it can be used to apply foil but with BMF I don't see why go through that trouble. It's mostly used on photo etch parts is my understaning.

I didn't make the rivets. They came in a bag on 5 sprues of 35 and I painted them brass for some contrast.

Denis, I have had every bottle of their products end up with cracked lids just like yours. All with very little use.

I have used their products before and never had a broken lid problem. But now I know what to expect.

Shelby wrote:
A mock up of what it's looking like at this stage...sans wheels as they are in the paint shop.



Comments, suggestions and constructive critisism always welcome and appreciated.  Thanks for checking it out guys!

Denis, have you considered thinning the top of the windshield frame to match the thickness of the pillars, so as to lose the bulkiness of it. Maybe even remove the top of the frame altogether and just leave the pillars ?

Thanks guys!  Time for an update!

I'm glad in a way I'm not the only one having problems with those lids.

Sam - Dave also suggested I trim down the top of the frame which is a good idea but removing the top might allow me to shorten the pillars and the winshield from the top.  I will definitely look into what I can work out there because I do want to shorten it some if possible. Thanks!

I put the door back together using some styrene to reinforce it from the back.



The final result from the front.  I think I got it pretty flush.



I worked on the bench seat which is open at the back and since it will stick out I cut out some styrene to cover it.



I still need to round off the corners but I'm getting there.  I will be using .020 styrene rod to make a trim to join the seat and back.  I didn't put it yet because I will be painting it a different colour than the rest of the seat.



Did some other stuff but not picture worthy yet.  Hopefully I post more progress this week.
Thanks for looking guys!

Keep on Truckin!

Denis.... the door card looks terrific. NICE work buddie.

Thanks Bruce and Al.

Time for an update!

Sam had suggested to get rid of the top of the windshield frame and it was the easiest to shorten it and have everything fit so I got started on it.

The tape indicates where I cut the frame and how much was taken off.  I didn't do the calculation as to how much was taken off scale wise, just made sure everything was even.



The original size windshield and the chopped off one after the fact.



A different angle to show the difference.



Mock of the windshield in its topless frame.  From that angle it sure looks a little silly to me the nose looks so long.



From this angle it looks better but I'm not entirely sold on the look but I have an idea that hopefully will correct that.



Next up is a little more work on the interior and fixing that look and sideview mirrors as I'm not going to be using the stock one rather go with a more modern look for this custom.

Thanks for checking it out guys!

I think it's because there's no top "runner" or "edge" to the glass, maybe adding a little strip of styrene along the top edge would do the trick.
It'd look fine when BMF'd / Painted

Nicely coming along by the way.

Nice work Denis.

I think the slightly 'odd' look is caused by the a pillars now looking too thick at the tops, thicker there than the bottom which gives a top heavy look IMO. Maybe you could shave them down some from the outer edges at the top.

Looking at it again, Al's idea might prove a better end result.

Yes the top of the pillars will be rounded to slim them down but I feel it goes beyond that. So I worked on a solution that has been bouncing inside my head for awhile.

I picked out mirrors from a Shelby Series I kit to serve my purposes and they are larger than the slim side mirror from the Chevy.  I chopped off the arms completely.



To accept these mirrors and also to address the look of the truck and pillars I have fabricated...call it a mirror mount if you will that wedges on the door and pillar.



I'm not putting the mmirrors on until I'm pretty certain this is the way to go but so far I'm liking it.  Let me know what you guys think.

Different but not in a bad way. I like the little wings. The only other way to go would have been to mount the mirrors to the doors directly.

Thanks Buck! Ya I could have mounted them on the door but that would be way less work.

I'm going to work on a different style winglet/mount thingy.