200mm WWI British infantry.
+8
A5h
Geezerman
Skid
Johnag
GaryDainton
Dave from Pleasanton
dogfish7
itsonlyakit
12 posters
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200mm WWI British infantry.
Following a brief discussion with Al, I will be doing a step by step detailed photographic build which I hope some people will find of interest. Hopefully I won't make a total cock up of it and we can all learn about and discuss figure painting as we go along.
I have ordered this figure which I intend to convert/use to depict my Great Grandfather who was in the York and Lancaster Regiment and was killed in action on the 1st July 1916 at the Somme.
http://mitchesmilitarymodels.co.uk/?product=200lff-lancashire-fusiliers-1916
The figure should arrive early next week and Ill start the thread when it gets here.
Gary
I have ordered this figure which I intend to convert/use to depict my Great Grandfather who was in the York and Lancaster Regiment and was killed in action on the 1st July 1916 at the Somme.
http://mitchesmilitarymodels.co.uk/?product=200lff-lancashire-fusiliers-1916
The figure should arrive early next week and Ill start the thread when it gets here.
Gary
GaryDainton- Advanced Member
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Join date : 2014-03-06
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Location : Bolton UK
Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
Thanks for doing this Gary. Much appreciated.
Wiil your techiques translate to 1:35th scale?
Wiil your techiques translate to 1:35th scale?
_________________
Al.
Constructive criticism is always welcome.
“Success always demands a greater effort.” Winston Churchill
"Success is failure turned inside out" Unknown
Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
Thanks ZB, reserve judgement until we have results LOL.
Yes Al I used the same method for the 54mm Nery Diorama, ironically I think its easier on the small figures as I don't find they demand quite as much detail work, such as eyes etc.
You could come along with a smaller figure and see how we get on?.
G
Yes Al I used the same method for the 54mm Nery Diorama, ironically I think its easier on the small figures as I don't find they demand quite as much detail work, such as eyes etc.
You could come along with a smaller figure and see how we get on?.
G
GaryDainton- Advanced Member
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Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
Sounds a great idea, would love to know how to paint models, I will be watching with interest and awe no doubt
A5h- Resident member
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Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
Thanks Ash, I hope it'll be interesting and all comments will be welcome.
GaryDainton- Advanced Member
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Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
I will be watching this also because I have painted my fair share of figures. Lead, resin, plastic in various scales. 200 millimeters is not a small figure. That's about 8 inches tall, less headgear. Is this a metal casting or resin ? I have found that no matter what the scale, the more detail the sculptor includes, the easier the figure is to paint.
Cheers Eh!
Cheers Eh!
itsonlyakit- New Member
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Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
Hello itsonlyakit, the figure is a resin cast and I totally agree that sharp detailing makes a huge difference when painting. Ill be starting with the first post on Monday.
GaryDainton- Advanced Member
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Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
Hi Gary...
I have found my seat and thank you for stocking up the KFC oven...
Andy...
I have found my seat and thank you for stocking up the KFC oven...
Andy...
_________________
Andy...
Life isn't about how to survive the storm, but how to dance in the rain...
Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
Glad your looking in Andy.
GaryDainton- Advanced Member
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Location : Bolton UK
Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
OK guys Im going to make a start on this now. Before I do though I would like to make VERY clear that I do not profess to be an expert figure painter (Ive only been in the hobby for a couple of years), and this thread is in no way intended as a lecture or teaching exercise. I hope we'll learn a few things together as we go along, and all comments/suggestions and criticism will be welcome. This will be a VERY 'photo heavy' thread as I believe a picture is worth a thousand words, and I don't want repetitive strain wrist injury LOL.
The first few will be with my iPad but I have a nice compact camera coming which will be here by the time I get to important painting details.
I always start my build by making sure I know what Ill be making and painting and what colour its supposed to be. This is a 200mm Lancashire Fusilier which I will be converting ( by removing the shoulder tiles and scratch making new ones) to a York & Lancs to represent my Great Grandfather who was killed in The Battle of Albert at The Somme, on the very first day of the offensive!!, but he was definitely not alone in this respect. Here are the pice I've found on he internet which ill be using for reference. I print off the image relevant to the stage I'm at and have on my bench for easy reference to save me going on line, or checking my iPad images.
The uniform:
Helmet:
Belts and bags:
Scratch built shoulder tiles and badges:
Clean up of parts is something that a lot of people do in one go at the start of the build and resin kits generally have quite a bit of clean up work to do. This is a process which i hate with a passion and so as not to loose patience, and avoid extra work by removing something I shouldn't, I clean up each piece as I'm about to use/assemble/paint it. I tend to clean up and paint the head separately as I find it easier to move around than it would be attached to the figure, then as a rule, unless there are obvious advantages to painting a part before assembly I build and prime the whole figure.
I begin by washing all the parts with a mild dishwashing set up and allow to air dry, I don't usually attach the head to a pin vice for this, but Id done that before remembering to wash it LOL. I even do this with injection molded plastic kits but this could just be out of habit?. I have found this to be critical with resin, although some people say the don't do it, because if I don't wash off the mold release agent I find that:
The paint is repelled and separates on contact with the resin much like water off a waxed cotton jacket. This tends to lead to an uneven splotchy effect which is visible through the paint layers and frankly looks crap and/0r:
The paint needs to applied thickly to adhere properly and apart from the risk of concealing detail which is a schoolboy error Ive done a few times and had to strip a part, my whole painting technique (if you can call it that LOL) depends on applying thin layers often as transparencies or glazes. (more on this later).
Parts check and basic tools for clean up, I also use a multi speed rotary tool. I won't repeat this and please take it as read that if I'm painting to attaching a piece, it has been 'cleaned up'.
Ive cleaned up the head and drilled it onto a pin vice. This allows me to easily move around in the vice and also to remove it and hold it by hand if i feel like it. Mostly though I leave it in a multi position vice which I really like.
Ive got some primer coming tomorrow and we can discuss priming and begin painting the dreaded face. Hope too see you back then guys.
G
The first few will be with my iPad but I have a nice compact camera coming which will be here by the time I get to important painting details.
I always start my build by making sure I know what Ill be making and painting and what colour its supposed to be. This is a 200mm Lancashire Fusilier which I will be converting ( by removing the shoulder tiles and scratch making new ones) to a York & Lancs to represent my Great Grandfather who was killed in The Battle of Albert at The Somme, on the very first day of the offensive!!, but he was definitely not alone in this respect. Here are the pice I've found on he internet which ill be using for reference. I print off the image relevant to the stage I'm at and have on my bench for easy reference to save me going on line, or checking my iPad images.
The uniform:
Helmet:
Belts and bags:
Scratch built shoulder tiles and badges:
Clean up of parts is something that a lot of people do in one go at the start of the build and resin kits generally have quite a bit of clean up work to do. This is a process which i hate with a passion and so as not to loose patience, and avoid extra work by removing something I shouldn't, I clean up each piece as I'm about to use/assemble/paint it. I tend to clean up and paint the head separately as I find it easier to move around than it would be attached to the figure, then as a rule, unless there are obvious advantages to painting a part before assembly I build and prime the whole figure.
I begin by washing all the parts with a mild dishwashing set up and allow to air dry, I don't usually attach the head to a pin vice for this, but Id done that before remembering to wash it LOL. I even do this with injection molded plastic kits but this could just be out of habit?. I have found this to be critical with resin, although some people say the don't do it, because if I don't wash off the mold release agent I find that:
The paint is repelled and separates on contact with the resin much like water off a waxed cotton jacket. This tends to lead to an uneven splotchy effect which is visible through the paint layers and frankly looks crap and/0r:
The paint needs to applied thickly to adhere properly and apart from the risk of concealing detail which is a schoolboy error Ive done a few times and had to strip a part, my whole painting technique (if you can call it that LOL) depends on applying thin layers often as transparencies or glazes. (more on this later).
Parts check and basic tools for clean up, I also use a multi speed rotary tool. I won't repeat this and please take it as read that if I'm painting to attaching a piece, it has been 'cleaned up'.
Ive cleaned up the head and drilled it onto a pin vice. This allows me to easily move around in the vice and also to remove it and hold it by hand if i feel like it. Mostly though I leave it in a multi position vice which I really like.
Ive got some primer coming tomorrow and we can discuss priming and begin painting the dreaded face. Hope too see you back then guys.
G
Last edited by GaryDainton on Fri 19 Jun 2015, 6:43 pm; edited 1 time in total
GaryDainton- Advanced Member
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Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
Awesome! This will be very helpful as well as very interesting!
dogfish7- Intermediate Member
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Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
Thanks Bruce, hope so. LOL
GaryDainton- Advanced Member
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Location : Bolton UK
Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
Goodo on making a start Gary. Got my klit prepped and ready to follow along.
_________________
Al.
Constructive criticism is always welcome.
“Success always demands a greater effort.” Winston Churchill
"Success is failure turned inside out" Unknown
Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
Great stuff Al, Ill try to make posts as regular as possible, aiming for at least twice a week to maintain good progress and hopefully interest.
GaryDainton- Advanced Member
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Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
I am really liking this. very well done I am sure I will learn a ton.
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Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
Thanks ZB, much appreciated.
GaryDainton- Advanced Member
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Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
Great photos of the figure pieces. Photos of "re-enactor" look good for reference but he is way too clean at the moment. Noticed how he has shortened some straps by knotting on top of shoulders. Rifle looks original and used as is the shovel. I volunteer at a local military museum and we have a good assortment of WW1 Canadian issued equipment and uniforms. There were slight differences but not that much. Take your time with the head and hands and all will end well.
Cheers Eh!
Cheers Eh!
itsonlyakit- New Member
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Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
Thanks for that IOAK, We'll see how he pans out.
GaryDainton- Advanced Member
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Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
All paints will be Vallejo Model Colour MC or Model Air MA. I like both these for brush painting and I find the only difference is the model air is obviously thinner. I just use what I have and have no preference.
When doing the head I start by priming with Vallejo black primer and block on the colour very roughly before sketching in the eyes. I don't bother trying to keep anything tidy at this stage as I find i often make mistakes and prefer to tidy up later on.
Then I block in with Vallejo MC Basic Skintone where I think the highlights will be as this will show through the basic flesh going on later.
Next I build up a few very thin layers of base flesh with is MC Brown Sand with a little MC Basic Skintone.
Now I block in the eye area with MA black.
Then fill in the eye with a 50/50 mix of MA aged white and MC Light flesh leaving a thin line of black around the eye and the round (ish LOL) pupil/iris.
Then I fill in the iris with whichever colour i want, in this case MA french blue.
Its very important to remember that were only blocking colour in yet and not to expect any realism, there is a lot of work to do with many thin transparent layers or glazes on the flesh and fine detailing on the eyes. At this stage we are simply laying the basic foundations so he looks a bit 'action man' like.
When doing the head I start by priming with Vallejo black primer and block on the colour very roughly before sketching in the eyes. I don't bother trying to keep anything tidy at this stage as I find i often make mistakes and prefer to tidy up later on.
Then I block in with Vallejo MC Basic Skintone where I think the highlights will be as this will show through the basic flesh going on later.
Next I build up a few very thin layers of base flesh with is MC Brown Sand with a little MC Basic Skintone.
Now I block in the eye area with MA black.
Then fill in the eye with a 50/50 mix of MA aged white and MC Light flesh leaving a thin line of black around the eye and the round (ish LOL) pupil/iris.
Then I fill in the iris with whichever colour i want, in this case MA french blue.
Its very important to remember that were only blocking colour in yet and not to expect any realism, there is a lot of work to do with many thin transparent layers or glazes on the flesh and fine detailing on the eyes. At this stage we are simply laying the basic foundations so he looks a bit 'action man' like.
GaryDainton- Advanced Member
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Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
Just as a note in case anyone is interested I have lot of brushes but invariably use Windsor and Newton Series 7 Miniatures sizes 000, 00, 0, 1, 2 ,3 and 4. I hardly ever reach over these to grab another make of brush.
GaryDainton- Advanced Member
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Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
Way cool!
dogfish7- Intermediate Member
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Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
I prefer it when they start to come to life Bruce, but the basics must be done.
Thanks for looking in.
Thanks for looking in.
GaryDainton- Advanced Member
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Re: 200mm WWI British infantry.
Well thats exactly what I do ...... except mine come out looking like coco the bloody clown!
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GaryDainton- Advanced Member
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