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Revell Chevy Chevelle 396SS

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Post by GaryDainton Wed 25 Sep 2019, 8:13 am

I would probably try T-cut and go straight through to the plastic, or make a hole Revell Chevy Chevelle 396SS - Page 4 1792231099
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Post by GeeBee Wed 25 Sep 2019, 2:41 pm

Polishing complete, now I can make a start on the BMF
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Post by GeeBee Wed 25 Sep 2019, 2:45 pm

Revell Chevy Chevelle 396SS - Page 4 Img_6613
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Post by GaryDainton Wed 25 Sep 2019, 3:37 pm

Lovely work Geoff
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Post by dublin boy Wed 25 Sep 2019, 7:54 pm

Get a tube of Turtlewax Safe Cut Gary.

You need a good paint job first.
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Post by GeeBee Wed 25 Sep 2019, 8:43 pm

dublin boy wrote:Get a tube of Turtlewax Safe Cut Gary.

You need a good paint job first.

There's a very good reason i don't use Safecut or any other one product suits all product, it's the same with wet sanding, you don't just use a bit of well worn 1200 grade paper,you start off with a course grade (4000) and follow up with various grade flatting papers until you finish off with 8000 or 12000,it's the same with polishes, you start off with a slightly coarser polish and use different grades of polish to remove the find scratches left by the previous product.
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Post by GaryDainton Wed 25 Sep 2019, 8:47 pm

dublin boy wrote:Get a tube of Turtlewax Safe Cut Gary.

You need a good paint job first.

Therein lies the problem Shay Revell Chevy Chevelle 396SS - Page 4 1792231099 Maybe when Im set up Ill have a go at the 1/12 Bentley but don't expect to get a finish like Geoff achieves.
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Post by GaryDainton Wed 25 Sep 2019, 8:49 pm

GeeBee wrote:
dublin boy wrote:Get a tube of Turtlewax Safe Cut Gary.

You need a good paint job first.

There's a very good reason i don't use Safecut or any other one product suits all product, it's the same with wet sanding, you don't just use a bit of well worn 1200 grade paper,you start off with a course grade (4000) and follow up with various grade flatting papers until you finish off with 8000 or 12000,it's the same with polishes, you start off with a slightly coarser polish and use different grades of polish to remove the find scratches left by the previous product.

I would be petrified that the scratches made by the sanding wouldn't come out, do you never use a flat finish and achieve the 'shine' with clear coats?
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Post by dublin boy Wed 25 Sep 2019, 9:01 pm

If you use acrylic paint like Halfords or Holts car paint, you don't need to wet sand, it's softer than the old celly Geoff likes to use Gaz boy.

A polishing compound and a bit of elbow grease is all I ever needed.

The general rule of thumb is that non metallics need to be polished, but you can clear if you want, but that will need polishing out.

Metallics come out flat and have to be clearcoated and polished out.

I won't even go into 2 pack here...lol
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Post by GeeBee Wed 25 Sep 2019, 9:55 pm

GaryDainton wrote:
GeeBee wrote:
dublin boy wrote:Get a tube of Turtlewax Safe Cut Gary.

You need a good paint job first.

There's a very good reason i don't use Safecut or any other one product suits all product, it's the same with wet sanding, you don't just use a bit of well worn 1200 grade paper,you start off with a course grade (4000) and follow up with various grade flatting papers until you finish off with 8000 or 12000,it's the same with polishes, you start off with a slightly coarser polish and use different grades of polish to remove the find scratches left by the previous product.

I would be petrified that the scratches made by the sanding wouldn't come out, do you never use a flat finish and achieve the 'shine' with clear coats?

On Metallic finishes i tend to use a single pack clearcoat, solid colour I never use a clearcoat, I prefer to wet sand and polish to get a factory finish, which is why I don't use Zero or Gravity paints unless it's a metallic finish,as all their paints are "Clear over Base".
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Post by GeeBee Wed 25 Sep 2019, 10:03 pm

dublin boy wrote:If you use acrylic paint like Halfords or Holts car paint, you don't need to wet sand, it's softer than the old celly Geoff likes to use Gaz boy.

A polishing compound and a bit of elbow grease is all I ever needed.

The general rule of thumb is that non metallics need to be polished, but you can clear if you want, but that will need polishing out.

Metallics come out flat and have to be clearcoated and polished out.

I won't even go into 2 pack here...lol

The Chevelle was airbrushed using PPG Acrylic lacquer (MCW Lacquer) and clear coated using 1k acrylic lacquer supplied by my local body repair shop, applied using a Paasche VL airbrush with a #3 needle and tip set up, it didn't need any wet sanding but I still used four different compounds to bring out the deep shine, applying the paint using an aerosol gives you a much thicker coat of paint, if you used that Safecut on a airbrushed finish,you'd be through the paint in five minutes.
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Post by GaryDainton Thu 26 Sep 2019, 8:47 am

Interesting, much more complex than one might imagine thanks guys Revell Chevy Chevelle 396SS - Page 4 3887228019
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Post by dublin boy Thu 26 Sep 2019, 8:12 pm

I get as good a mirror finish using my method.

Mind you, you may be right as all my paint is rattle can Geoff.

Geoff had a fry-up today at lunchtime. I was sitting beside him....lol
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Post by GaryDainton Thu 26 Sep 2019, 9:20 pm

dublin boy wrote:I get as good a mirror finish using my method.

Mind you, you may be right as all my paint is rattle can Geoff.

Geoff had a fry-up today at lunchtime. I was sitting beside him....lol

Hope you had one too Shay Revell Chevy Chevelle 396SS - Page 4 1705482731
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Post by GeeBee Thu 26 Sep 2019, 11:00 pm

GaryDainton wrote:
dublin boy wrote:I get as good a mirror finish using my method.

Mind you, you may be right as all my paint is rattle can Geoff.

Geoff had a fry-up today at lunchtime. I was sitting beside him....lol

Hope you had one too Shay Revell Chevy Chevelle 396SS - Page 4 1705482731

Of course he did, exactly the same as what I had,apart from the San Miguel, but in my defence, I've walked just over 2 miles today and burnt off around 1610 calories, Shay walked from the car to the pub.....
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Post by dublin boy Fri 27 Sep 2019, 12:14 am

Small fry up Gary. Very nice.
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Post by GaryDainton Fri 27 Sep 2019, 10:32 am

GeeBee wrote:
GaryDainton wrote:
dublin boy wrote:I get as good a mirror finish using my method.

Mind you, you may be right as all my paint is rattle can Geoff.

Geoff had a fry-up today at lunchtime. I was sitting beside him....lol

Hope you had one too Shay Revell Chevy Chevelle 396SS - Page 4 1705482731

Of course he did, exactly the same as what I had,apart from the San Miguel, but in my defence, I've walked just over 2 miles today and burnt off around 1610 calories, Shay walked from the car to the pub.....

Don't need to justify imbibing to me Geoff Revell Chevy Chevelle 396SS - Page 4 3331969777
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Post by GaryDainton Fri 27 Sep 2019, 10:33 am

dublin boy wrote:Small fry up Gary. Very nice.

Can beat it Shay Revell Chevy Chevelle 396SS - Page 4 1705482731
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Post by dublin boy Fri 27 Sep 2019, 11:24 pm

Doesn't make me any skinnier though Gary! lol
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Post by KatsZenJammer Sat 28 Sep 2019, 4:00 pm

The body looks beautiful, can't wait to see the results of the polishing.
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Post by GeeBee Thu 14 Nov 2019, 10:56 pm

Back to the Chevelle, it's been on the backburner while I was working on something else, spent today doing the BMF on the lower chrome trim
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Post by GeeBee Thu 14 Nov 2019, 10:57 pm

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Post by Skid Fri 15 Nov 2019, 10:12 am

That's looking good Geoff. Nice work on the rocker panel.

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Post by GaryDainton Fri 15 Nov 2019, 4:39 pm

Lovely work, BMF, need I say more? Revell Chevy Chevelle 396SS - Page 4 2337884168
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Post by GeeBee Fri 15 Nov 2019, 5:43 pm

A little more BMF this afternoon, the centre part of the bonnet vents need to be painting satin black.

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