Re: Bugati T50.... with a difference.

by Guest Thu 09 Oct 2014, 11:46 pm

Yup, Gently Bentley is the way to go, Ive used it loads of times without any issues, apply the fluid to the cloth not the surface.

John's method could be utilised with a putty rubber that artists use, the linseed oil would penetrant the adhesive.

Also simple petroleum jelly could work, even vegetable oil at a push.

by Skid Thu 09 Oct 2014, 11:48 pm

Thanks to both of you.

I'll try your trick tomorrow Colin. OK to use cotton buds?

by Guest Thu 09 Oct 2014, 11:51 pm

Yup cotton buds work well, I just have a supply of soft cotton linen at hand which is why I mentioned a cloth.

I edited my post above with extra info during your last post FYI.

by Skid Fri 10 Oct 2014, 11:06 am

I edited my post above with extra info during your last post FYI. wrote:

Thanks Colin, much appreciated. Going to try the lighter fuel later today. When that's done, it will be time for the gloss clear coats.

In the meantime, the rear wings and 'turtle deck' have been painted too.

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by Guest Fri 10 Oct 2014, 5:35 pm

Looks great in Blue and White. 50% rubbing alcohol will remove the residue and not hurt the paint. 90 % or 100 % will hurt the paint so be careful what you buy. I get mine at the local "Dollar Store".

by Skid Fri 10 Oct 2014, 6:47 pm

Thanks for the heads up Buck.

Well the lighter fuel worked up to a point but no amount of fuel/rubbing would get it all off.

So Bozo here, decided to mask off the blue and respray the white. Hah!! Laid down the Tamiya masking tape along the separation line and made the cut with a new blade. However, when I removed the tape from the white, it pulled away down to the plastic!!

It's weird as I don't recall this ever happening before. It seems like the primer is not adhereing to the plastic properly!!!

So now it's stripped, ready to try again!!

by Skid Fri 10 Oct 2014, 7:08 pm

The real deal engine is very shiney with a lot of polished alluminium and circle polished alluminium. So I sprayed the engine gloss black then with Alclad II Polished Alluminium. Not so sure about it now.

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I addition to the body problems, my .3mm airbrush has packed up and needs replacing and BOTH moisture traps have also packed up!!!! Oh boy!!! LOL

by Guest Fri 10 Oct 2014, 7:47 pm

I think that engine looks really good.

Weird that the fluid didn't get the adhesive off, I've had no issues at all right from masking tape to insulating tape residue

I thought I'd been useful there for a minute... lol. .

by Guest Fri 10 Oct 2014, 8:05 pm

The engine looks great Al. Keep it up. I really want to see a detailed engine here because I'm going to use your work to copy for my rat rod. Bugati T50.... with a difference. - Page 3 2704104872

Bugati T50.... with a difference. - Page 3 2704104872

by Guest Fri 10 Oct 2014, 9:54 pm

"I addition to the body problems, my .3mm airbrush has packed up and needs replacing and BOTH moisture traps have also packed up!!!! Oh boy!!! LOL" wrote Al.

TIME TO THINK CO2 AL!!!!

by Skid Fri 10 Oct 2014, 10:19 pm

You need new glasses John..... it's the AIRBRUSH not the compressor that's packed up. Bugati T50.... with a difference. - Page 3 1705482731

by Guest Sat 11 Oct 2014, 12:05 am

Al: Nothing wrong with my eyes, but why not make sure you don't plug up another airbrush?? Likewise no more need for water traps. Bugati T50.... with a difference. - Page 3 3887228019

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by Guest Sat 11 Oct 2014, 3:35 pm

That engine rocks , Al.

by pete s Sat 11 Oct 2014, 4:13 pm

I agree with John. It is time to switch to CO2. I did at the first of the year, and love it. Would not go back to a compressor every again!

It is quiet, moisture issues are gone, very precise pressure control, and very inexpensive after buying the bottle and regulator gauges.

by Johnag Sat 11 Oct 2014, 6:11 pm

Hi Al,

Why are you not sure about the engine, I think it looks pretty rocking here...

Andy...

by Skid Sun 12 Oct 2014, 12:22 am

Thanks guys.

Why are you not sure about the engine, I think it looks pretty rocking here... wrote:

I'm not big on 'bling' is why Colin but then again the real deal has plenty of it!! LOL.

I wired the engine tonight. Not my neatest ever job but It's going to have to do.

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John, this is as far as the detail is going on this one. I'll do a detailed engine when I build the same kit as the stock car. Assuming I can find one that is, they've been a bit scarce on eBay lately.

by Sam Sun 12 Oct 2014, 12:36 am

A little wiring sure livens things up.

by Guest Sun 12 Oct 2014, 2:21 am

by RetiredMike Sun 12 Oct 2014, 2:29 pm

Yellow wiring goes well with the blue body.

by Johnag Sun 12 Oct 2014, 4:57 pm

Skid wrote:The real deal engine is very shiney with a lot of polished alluminium and circle polished alluminium. So I sprayed the engine gloss black then with Alclad II Polished Alluminium. Not so sure about it now.

Hi Mr Al,

When you use the Alclad paint, can you spray it indoors like the acrylic paint, as in does it smell, do you have to use a mask etc...

Andy...

by Geezerman Mon 13 Oct 2014, 10:49 am

What do you mean by 'packed up" concerning your air brush, Skid?
I have a small bottle of Spray gun & paint mixing equipment lube (by DeVibiss) That I have had for years. I only use it to dip the needle tip in after cleaning, so it's lasted quite a while. Plus, I back the needle off the nozzle until the next use.
Masking for an edge needs pretty good adhesion, but when I need lower tack for general use, pressing the sticky side of tape to your shirt, or similar cloth, will block off some of the glue by leaving small traces of fiber on it.
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Engine and paint lookin good!

by GaryDainton Mon 13 Oct 2014, 8:14 pm

exposed engine? Bugati T50.... with a difference. - Page 3 1705482731

going to be a stunner Al

by webby Wed 15 Oct 2014, 12:09 pm

Missed this WIP as I was at Bathurst (don't ask!) Fantastic job thus far, nice to see some more unusual subjects covered.

by Brizio Wed 15 Oct 2014, 3:00 pm

Nice concept and work!

by Skid Wed 15 Oct 2014, 4:12 pm

Thanks all.

Johnag wrote:
Skid wrote:

When you use the Alclad paint, can you spray it indoors like the acrylic paint, as in does it smell, do you have to use a mask etc...

Andy...

Andy.... treat it just like any other acrylic paint. I use a home made paint booth for all my spraying but I also know someone who sprays Alclad indoors without one. As always, best to wear a mask.

Alclad is not exactly cheap at around £5.00 per bottle so it's best to use a .3mm nozzle and you do need to turn down the actual spraying pressure to about 12lb psi. Also only just open up the needle or set the needle stop, so it's spraying a minimum amount of paint. This not only saves on wasted paint but also gives the best shine/finish. Lastly, when spraying Alclad, keep the part and nozzle at an acute (low) angle. This, this allows the metal particles to stand up and give's a better shine, or so I have read. It does appear to work however.

Geezerman wrote:What do you mean by 'packed up" concerning your air brush, Skid?
I have a small bottle of Spray gun & paint mixing equipment lube (by DeVibiss) That I have had for years. I only use it to dip the needle tip in after cleaning, so it's lasted quite a while. Plus, I back the needle off the nozzle until the next use.
Masking for an edge needs pretty good adhesion, but when I need lower tack for general use, pressing the sticky side of tape to your shirt, or similar cloth, will block off some of the glue by leaving small traces of fiber on it.

Engine and paint lookin good!

Clay.... Sorry, I should have expanded. The AB concerned is just a cheapie generic item which I use soley for spraying Alclad. The little rubber grommet in the airvalve snapped and experience has taught me, getting replacements for generic AB's is nigh on impossible and not worth the hassle.

OK guys I got my problems sorted at the fourth attempt.

The primer was peeling not because of the masking tape but because bozo here, picked up a brand new can of 'metal' primer instead of plastic primer. As soo as I sprayed with the plastic stuff, all was well again. As for the tape residue, this time I used Tamiya tape all over instead of just for the separation lines. So no residue.

I also re-finished the wheels in Alclad Polished Alluminium.

Clear gloss coat next.

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