Ford Model T street rod

next project on the bench, whilst the 251 has its paint/oils drying off
Ford Model T hot rod by Monogram
not sure what colour its going yet, but probably orange, maybe with some flames down the side.....we shall see when the time comes

Nice kit, I am sure you'll do well with it Paul.

*joins the audience*

Supposed to be a nice kit from what I've heard Paul, looking forward to it.

will be following this one with interest

hope i dont bugger it up then lol

A cool little pair. I wonder why they only included four whitewall decals?

RetiredMike wrote:A cool little pair.  I wonder why they only included four whitewall decals?

wont be using them anyway.....absolutly detest whitewall tyres.....never understood them

a question to those who might know better

id like to wire up the engine.......but where do the plug leads go?......also can anyone suggest a better colour for the motor rather than red, just not sure what

dublin boy wrote:Supposed to be a nice kit from what I've heard Paul, looking forward to it.

i struck lucky at a show in Darlington last year.......this, Ford '32 5 window coupe rod and an El Camino.......30 quid for all three!!......dont think the trader realised how much he could have got

What a deal.

I'd paint the engine a dark copper, or even what ever shade you do the body colour in. Also maybe think about painting the chassis the same colour as the body. Just my take on what I would do with this little prancer.

The red thing at the back of the intake is a Magneto Paul, so treat it as a Dizzy.

Then wire as usual for an ohv engine.

Plastic Freak wrote:Also maybe think about painting the chassis the same colour as the body. Just my take on what I would do with this little prancer.

now that i didnt think of doing....might just do that.....im thinking of orange cos i have a new (to me) brand of paint to try out that i saw at a show....picked up some red, orange and purple.....and im thinking of doing the '32 coupe in purple

dublin boy wrote:The red thing at the back of the intake is a Magneto Paul, so treat it as a Dizzy.

Then wire as usual for an ohv engine.

yes.....but where do i put the plug leads.......normally you get some kind of indent or mark on the heads or rocker covers but this has nothing......ive even been looking at what spare engines i have in the spares box but dont have any v8's that are suitable

Use a pin vise to make holes in the cylinder heads beside the exhaust manifolds.

You had kit cars , so imagine a giant Ford Crossflow as to where the plugs actually are, you'll need eight wires obviously

i might have to think how i can make some plug boots to make it look better

Depending on what you're using for the leads you can use insulation from wires as plug boots. I've done this in the past and it works ok for straight boots but the angled ones are more difficult. When I've been extra finicky I shaved down the end where the lead goes and melted it ever so slightly to get the rounded edge.

Another option if you absolutely want right angle boots is to make them out of styrene rod and affix them to the engine with a hole drilled for the lead wire. Using styrene makes it easier to shape the boots so they look more real.

Don't know if this is of any help but I thought I'd throw it out there.

As far as engine color goes, go with what you like.

ahh it appears to be the venerable small block chevrolet 5.7 liter 350 c.i. you have there so the cylinders would be numbered 1357 left bank or drivers side front to rear and the passenger side would be 2468 the firing order is 18436572 and the magneto or distributor would turn clockwise any of these i ever built or tuned id always point the no. 1 wire pointing towards the no. 1 intake port and away you go i also included a photo to help with your spark plug wire placement hope this helps my friend

Number 1 cylinder on a v configuration is always the first cylinder in the forward bank. As for where the pick up points to within the the distributor is a moot point. Only thing that matters is the plug wire order, ie. the plug wire for the first cylinde can be placed anywhere on the cap as long as the 18436572 (SBC Chevy) order is followed.

At one time you could buy distributor caps (maybe you still can) that had sequencale wires, meaning the right bank of wires lined up off the right side of the cap for corresponding cylinders, and the left bank of wires lined up off the left side of the cap for the corresponding cylinders. The firing sequence was 'mapped' within the cap. This makes for a super clean wire run and avoids the snake pit of wires.

well, ive scratched a dizzy and ive drilled some holes in the cylinder heads but i cant plumb it till the headers are on......i cant add the exhausts til the engine is in the frame........cant put the engine the frame til the frame is painted.........think it might be one of the last things to get done

also i think it will have no soft top cos its entirely the wrong profile to fit to the tub, end up with a 2 to 3 mm gap, and its slightly warped too

If you want to use the magneto, it's a Vertex style where the leads come off the side of the cap.  You can get enough info to figure it out from this link.

http://nastyz28.com/threads/fs-joe-hunt-distributor-old-school-look-newer-technology.213534/

now theres an idea......might have another go at scratching something, might look a bit neater than what i have done already

Dave from Pleasanton wrote:If you want to use the magneto, it's a Vertex style where the leads come off the side of the cap.  You can get enough info to figure it out from this link.

http://nastyz28.com/threads/fs-joe-hunt-distributor-old-school-look-newer-technology.213534/

Good to see you back Dave. Great idea, iirc the kit actually has a mag.

Paul, if you can't drill the eight holes in the mag across the cap, it's pretty easy to make one out of tubing and plastic rod or sprue.  1/8" (about 3mm) aluminum tube about 1/4" (6mm) long.  Leave it either natural aluminum or polish it.  Find some plastic rod that fits inside.  For the top cut a notch about 1.5 mm from the top and taper it so that it is thinner towards the bottom.  Take four wires and glue them in a row, then four more and do the same.  Slip them into the tube and then jam the plastic into the tube holding the wires in a line. It may or may not require gluing to keep it in place.  Paint the plastic either tan or black as those are the colors that were used.  For the bottom use the same size plastic and drill a hole in the center for the mounting pin and then glue it into the tube.

Don't know if they ship to the UK but Morgan Automotive Detail makes a killer version.

finally got the painting done to a point where i can make a start on assembly

most of the engine and back axle in, body tub is ready for the decals to go on the instruments

paint is Mr Hobby orange.....first time ive tried using this brand and i quite like it, airbrushed quite easily