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Individual track links

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Individual track links Empty Individual track links

Post by Reserve Sun 09 Feb 2014, 7:17 am

Some here have expressed an interest in working with individual (indy) track links so I figured I'd offer an SBS on how I do them.

These are Dragon's Magic Tracks for their 38(t) E/F and since they are not molded to a sprue but come in a bag, no cleanup is needed.

Individual track links 00311

Note the size of the links compared with the #11 blade. I'd suggest the first try with these be something bigger, such as a Tiger or Panther. Regardless of size, the method remains the same.

Here I am dry assembling them with a pair of tweezers since the links are not big enough to handle with fingers.

Individual track links 00411

Once you have a section assembled, brush some liquid plastic cement over the inside surface being sure that some gets down between the links. Don't overdo this. Note my choice of LPC, I like this type for it's somewhat longer working time. I generally make three sections-the bottom run, top run, and the wrap around the drive sprocket.

Individual track links 00610

1-2 minutes after cement is applied press down on the run with a straight edge to seat the links and flatten the track.

Individual track links 00710

Sometimes while dry assembling I will put a piece of tape on a straight edge and set the links down on the stick side and up against the edge. This helps keep the links in place as well as keeps the track straight.

Individual track links 00910

5-10 minutes after cement application form the links around the roadwheels etc. There will be some flex to the track once dry so you'll have some wiggle room. Despite this, try to get the track formed as perfectly as possible.

Individual track links 01010


This particular model will be depicted in a maintenance depot being worked on, hence the broken run seen here. Sorry, it's just what I happened to be working on at this time.

When doing a completely installed track, do not fix the drive sprocket or idler wheel on the model. This will eliminate the one link too long or short difficulty encountered so often. I paint the running gear and tracks before it all goes together and then mask it off to finish the rest of the model because I hate trying to paint around everything. Hope this is an aid and not too confusing...ask questions if you have them and I will try to clarify.


Regards,
Mark

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Post by Skid Sun 09 Feb 2014, 10:31 am

I was waiting to see this Mark.

I now know why you prefer individual links and since seeing this I no longer fear them.

Many thanks for posting.

Since you mentioned 'flexibility' in the tracks once assembled, do I assume that the cement you use is not MEK?

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Post by Reserve Sun 09 Feb 2014, 6:07 pm

Hey Al

No, nothing fancy like that just the Testor's that's been around for years. Sometimes old school's the best school.

There will be flex present once dried because after all what you end up with is nothing but a bunch of thin styrene pieces glued together. Mind, it's not much but you'll have some.

In any event I like the kit supplied stuff way better than Fruils, which may look great but come with their own problems. Like costing as much if not more than the expensive model you've just bought for instance, a fact which bothers my thrifty (cheap?) soul.


Regards,
Mark

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Post by Skid Sun 09 Feb 2014, 6:11 pm

Couldn't agree more on the AM stuff Mark. Seen people spend 3/4/5 times as much on AM stuff than the model cost!!!

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Constructive criticism is always welcome.

Success always demands a greater effort.” Winston Churchill

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