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I need some recommendations for body fillers please.

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Post by Mr Hirakawa Mon 25 Apr 2016, 11:34 am

Good morning gentlemen. I am currently preparing a 1957 Mercedes 300 SL Roadster from Italeri.
I have assembled the front and rear bumbers and side air intakes but the manufacturer has left the contact lines in a very noticable area so I will try to use a filler and smooth it all out before going to prime. I would like it if members would throw out some recommendations for fillers they have used in the past and what they feel is the best product to use. I have a tube of squadron white putty on the bench but I find that it dries far too quick and sets like stone before I can do much with it.
Your input, no matter how small will be appreciated so please, share your knowledge.
Many thanks.
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Post by Geezerman Mon 25 Apr 2016, 11:41 am

I use regular automotive Bondo, and finish final minor imperfections with Bondo glazing and spot putty. Both work extremely easily.
I need some recommendations for body fillers please. 2776978727
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Post by Guest Mon 25 Apr 2016, 1:34 pm

I use the old standby CA hardened with baking soda. Can be worked immediately.

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Post by Guest Mon 25 Apr 2016, 1:42 pm

There's an Isopon P38 "Easy Sand" polyester filler which is quite good being's it's polyester based, it's quite fine too which is an advantage for us modelers.

Halfords sell it ... think it's a 250 grm pot


For fine (panel and shut) lines i've used

Bicarb set with superglue
flour set with superglue

Both slightly tough to sand but give a great smooth surface that takes paint very well.

Also i've had success with sanding styrene rod so as to get a fine dust/powder and have rubbed that into a gap and hardened it with liquid poly

another styrene idea is thin sheet, using scalpel to cut a slither against a metal rule and then drop that into the gap ... again hardening it with liquid poly.

hopefully of some help here

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Post by Skid Mon 25 Apr 2016, 2:53 pm

CA and bicarbonate of soda. Instant setting and instant sanding. You may sometimes need to fill TINY depressions with repeated process or with conventional filler.

Some seem to think it is hard to sand but I have never found it so.

It also has the great advantage in that it does not shrink.

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Post by Guest Mon 25 Apr 2016, 3:07 pm

Skid wrote:Some seem to think it is hard to sand but I have never found it so.

If you use the cheaper superglue from the "poundshops" I've found it a little tough to sand back Al ... which Cyano do you use?? ... i'm all for making things a bit simpler lol.

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Post by dublin boy Mon 25 Apr 2016, 4:16 pm

Isopon P38 2 part for me too, dries quickly and sands down beautifully, and it doesn't shrink.

I have a tube of it for 8 years now and it and the hardener are still perfect.
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Post by beowulf Mon 25 Apr 2016, 4:57 pm

i like squadron putty.....if you want to thin it use a drop or two of nail polish remover

i like the revell putty when i can get it......seems smoother to me

ive never used superglue and bicarb...............but i have used superglue and talc powder....ok but i prefer proper putty
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Post by Skid Mon 25 Apr 2016, 6:23 pm

Snake wrote:
Skid wrote:Some seem to think it is hard to sand but I have never found it so.

If you use the cheaper superglue from the "poundshops" I've found it a little tough to sand back Al ... which Cyano do you use?? ... i'm all for making things a bit simpler lol.

The only CA I ever use now Colin is from Poundland. Eight tubes for a quid and it sands back OK for me.

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Post by Guest Mon 25 Apr 2016, 7:14 pm

Hmmm ...right, I use the little bottles from poundshops, 4forna quid hobbies, 25ml I think they are.

Must be the bicarb lol

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Post by Guest Mon 25 Apr 2016, 9:56 pm

I too have used cheap CA and the expensive brand name stuff with baking soda, works a charm for me. Like Clay I have also used auto bondo. I found that laying it on too thick can cause too much heat when it kicks. I noticed it actually caused warpage to the part I was working on.

I find I use the automotive glaze more then anything. I found the Tamiya stuff just dries WAY TOO quick and shrinks over time. On my Ducati build from 8yrs ago where I graphed two gas tanks together it has started to crack, I used Tamiya putty on most of that.

Good luck Mr. H.

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Post by Skid Mon 25 Apr 2016, 10:51 pm

Colin, this is what I use from Poundland:

I need some recommendations for body fillers please. 12418010

Years ago I tried the thin stuff in bottles too but found the fumes terribly overpowering!

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Post by Guest Mon 25 Apr 2016, 11:16 pm

Yep that's the bottled stuff I use, fumes don't bother me too much.
I just seem to stick skin more than anything else with the tubes lol.

I also forgot to mention that you can use cotton thread to lay in cracks (or on if you want a raised seam) ...again setting it hard with super glue .. This also sands back OK when fully cured.
Kitchen roll is quite versatile and sets hard and is sandable too.

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Post by Johnag Tue 26 Apr 2016, 12:24 am

Hi H,

I use P38 for big bits and I got myself some of the 'Deluxe Perfect Plastic Putty' a while back and have used it on a couple of builds, it's great to use too and dries quickly, it's also a lot easier to get out of the tube than the Squadron stuff...

Andy...

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Post by Shelby Tue 26 Apr 2016, 1:13 am

Do you have a picture of what you're trying to fill?

Al I'm surprised you didn't mention MEK
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Post by Mr Hirakawa Tue 26 Apr 2016, 9:15 am

Shelby wrote:Do you have a picture of what you're trying to fill?
Sure thing.

This line needs to be invisible including all the way along the nose.
I need some recommendations for body fillers please. Front_10

As does this one.
I need some recommendations for body fillers please. Body_f10

And this dimple needs to go.
I need some recommendations for body fillers please. Dimple10

Many thanks to all here. The response to my request has been excellent and has given me lots of information and things to research and think on. Learning all the time.
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Post by Guest Tue 26 Apr 2016, 12:41 pm

ln that situation l myself would be using straight glue, l'd let it set up then scrap it down. For the end l would lay in a piece is cut rod bad glue, let it set up then sand. For the dimp, glaze will do.
I am assuming you already have it assembled? If not what l usually do is apply glue to both parts liberally way a second or two then assemble the parts pressing them together causing some softened styrene to ooze out. This acts as self filler, then I scrap and or sand it back. If you cut the splooge off it can be used as filler. Simply apply glue the end of the seam and push the cut off splooged bit into the seam. Again waiting for the glue and styrene to harden before scraping/ sanding back.
l hope that makes sense.

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Post by Mr Hirakawa Wed 27 Apr 2016, 3:26 pm

It makes perfect sense Plastic Freak. I've gone ahead with the resources available at hand and tried the CA with soda. It was like filing sugar so I tried it with just CA alone as i'm in no rush to get the job done and after much filing and sanding I think i'm getting somewhere and i'm enjoying the effort needed. I guess i've been spoiled with Tamiya and Revell kits which don't need too much attention on the bodywork. Thanks for all the contributions guys, it's appreciated.

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Post by Guest Wed 27 Apr 2016, 5:53 pm

I need some recommendations for body fillers please. 1705482731

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Post by Shelby Thu 28 Apr 2016, 12:24 am

A lot of the kits have those dimples somewhere, even Revell and Tamiya at times.
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Post by Guest Thu 28 Apr 2016, 10:05 am

Now I've seen the photos of what needs doing ..... A smear and a blob of tippex (liquid paper, correction fluid) would do it with ease.

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Post by dublin boy Thu 28 Apr 2016, 3:54 pm

What's Tippex made from Colin, it's very thin these days? It used to be fairly lumpy back in the day when it was new. Apparantly Mike Nesmiths Mam (him from the Monkees) invented it.

I just can't imagine it as a filler, but then again I never even thought of trying it. I haven't even seen a bottle of it for ages.
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Post by Guest Thu 28 Apr 2016, 5:58 pm

I use (and have done for years) tippex for a fine filler on everything ... even 1:1 car scratches before primer.

It used to have trichloroethane (solvent) as the solvent but after all the hooo haaa about people doing naughties with it this was changed to benzene (still dodgy if you ask me)

The main white colouring powder (solute) is titanium dioxide or was when i did my COSHH training and had to log every god damn thing in the labs and offices that "could" pose a health issue

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Post by Guest Thu 28 Apr 2016, 6:44 pm

Wow that is very very interesting Colin, thanks a to for sharing this. I wounded if it is thin enough to be run in a printer. See where I am going with this?

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Post by Mr Hirakawa Tue 03 May 2016, 12:00 pm

Snake wrote:I use (and have done for years) tippex for a fine filler on everything

Indeed, that is a very interesting tip. I'll be giving that a go next time. Thank you.
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